Hot on the heels of our long-awaited Burundi comes another delightful offering!
San Sebastián is a wonderful example of a classic washed Colombian coffee. On the nose, we get a hint of gentle citrus amid a distinctive milk chocolate aroma. This develops into a flavour reminiscent of fresh plum and nutmeg – bright, bodied and a little spiced. Overall, the acidity is well balanced with a clean finish.
We think this offering is tasty, versatile and should be a staple on any coffee shelf!
This coffee is brought to us via our wholesale partner Cofinet. They work closely with local stakeholders in Colombia to build a direct relationship with farmers. In this case, San Sebastián is a community lot processed by the Occicafe co-op. Local smallholders, with an average farm size of 0.5-1.5ha, produce crops which are predominantly Castillo and Caturra varietals. These coffees are grown at altitudes upwards of 1700masl, in the Inza district, Tierradentro, western Cauca. In this locale, 80% of the population is comprised of the indigenous Nasa group. Typically, farmers from this group split their production between permanent cash-crops (coffee, sugarcane and banana) and subsistence crops (corn, pulses, potatoes, onions, cabbage and coriander). The Nasa term Kiwe translates to “see, sow and harvest.” This reflects the centrality of traditional agricultural practices in land management and the protection of the local landscape.
Crops benefit from fertile soils, enriched by ancient volcanic ash from eruptions of the Ruiz-Tomlia volcano complex during the late Pleistocene and Holocene epochs (c. the last 20000 years). Soils derived from volcanic ash are found in approximately 12% of Colombia’s total land, particularly in the regions of Caldas, Cauca, Huila, Nariño, Quindío, Risaralda, and Tolima – all areas of significant economic development. If you are familiar with coffee, you will recognise these locations as the heartlands of Colombia’s coffee production. It is humbling to consider how volcanic activity over the eons has a tangible influence on modern societies and on the very cups of coffee we consume so readily.
We believe the San Sebastián reflects the characteristics that made Colombian coffee so famous over the years: typical varietals, the traditional washed process, an appealing mix of flavour, acidity and richness. In 2012, Colombian authorities made substantial alterations to export regulations. Previously, only washed coffees and specific varietals were permitted for export. However, changes in rules opened a new realm of experimentation and ushered in a new era of Colombian coffee. This is why the industry now has a range of unusual coffees to explore, like our Jhoan Vergara Java or last year’s Jairo Arcila Natural EF2 Pacamara. It seems like there is no end to the creativity and experimentation coming from Colombia. Yet, in this world of wild flavours, funky ferments and rare varietals, there is a lot to be said about a delicious and classically profiled washed Colombian. We really hope you enjoy the San Sebastián – it’s exactly what a great Colombian coffee should taste like.
